Australia

24 March 2024 So welcome to the Knight Riders on tour blog! We’ve got a long journey ahead of us (around 9 months), so we want to try to ease into things to start with. Some gentle stretching exercises you could say, so that no hamstrings are torn trying to sprint out of the starting blocks too quickly. The idea to travel around Australia first hit Nicole and I way back in 2012, when we were going to travel around Australia in 6 months, in our pop-top caravan, with our daughter, Katelyn. We were less than two weeks from leaving when Nicole had a recurrence of a serious health issue which stopped those plans in their tracks (no pun intended).

24 March 2024 Nicole and I had been trying to come up with a nickname for our motorhome once we’d bought it. Back in the early 2000s we’d named our “tinny” Knight Moves (for the Bob Seger fans out there), and we didn’t want to recycle that one. I can remember watching a certain 80s TV show back in late primary school starring The Hoff (before he was The Hoff). The show centred around a black Pontiac Firebird Trans Am T-top called K.I.T.T. (Knight Industries Two Thousand) with AI capabilities, allowing K.I.T.T. to converse with The Hoff and help him solve crimes. These days it would probably be Ryan Gosling in a (probably pink) Tesla.

31 March 2024 Friday 29th March, 2024. The day we started our Gap Year. Day 1. Unsurprisingly, it had been a very busy few weeks (and months) leading up to this day. Finishing work, deciding what to take (then thinking about whether we really needed to take it, and then changing our minds a few times), packing the motorhome, weighing the motorhome (which fortunately came out OK, even with a full water tank and full standard fuel tank), and saying goodbye to family and friends. Hardest of all was saying goodbye to Katelyn and Daisy. It’s a long time to be away, and Katelyn has been so supportive of us making this trip. But it was still a very emotional goodbye, during which Katelyn was the strong one (Nicole and I were crying). Daisy was strong too. In her defense though, she had no idea how long we were going for, but she definitely knew something was going on at least a week out.

1 April 2024 We shared Top of the Town Tourist Park in Stanthorpe (and the neighbouring Showgrounds) with the 49th Australian Van Nats. The “Nats” were set up in the Showgrounds, however a lot of competitors were staying in the caravan park. A slice of Aussie history living on through the hard work and dedication of these enthusiasts. And didn’t they look and sound fantastic! ← ← Previous · Contents · Next →

2 April 2024 The mighty sausage roll. Another Aussie classic, and as Australian as panel vans (refer previous post). I will admit now, sausage rolls are a true weakness of mine. Travelling Victoria last year (in winter, which is perfect sausage roll weather, obviously) I weakened a few too many times. Well, I have just opened my sausage roll account for this trip in Roma. I remembered a bakery in Roma (Bakearoma, get it?) we stopped at on the way back from Carnarvon Gorge a few years back, so decided it was time. And it didn’t disappoint.

2 April 2024 Just a quick note. I’m aware there have been some issues with images displaying in the blog posts. I’m trying to rectify this but haven’t succeeded just yet. I’ll keep trying over the next day or two and let you know when it’s fixed. In the meantime, I’ll load the images into the Photos section. My apologies, and please stay with us! ← ← Previous · Contents · Next →

4 April 2024 Today we’re camped up at a wonderful place, The Lake just outside Quilpie. It was recommended by Bruce and Maureen in Charleville and they were spot on. We arrived late yesterday (Wednesday) hoping to get ahead of the rain coming through, and fortunately did. Wonderful hosts and such a beautiful spot. It’s 2,200 acres which used to be a sheep station, but now is used to breed goats for meat export.

4 April 2024 On our rest day I’ve been updating the map section of our Knight Riders on Tour blog. You can access this by going to the navigation section at the top of the main page and selecting Map. This will take you to a new page where you’ll see our trail across the country as a blue line. This blue line is broken into segments. If you click on one of these segments, you’ll be taken to a short description of that section of our travels in a Timeline view.

5 April 2024 Yesterday’s (Thursday) rest day gave us time to think about how we should be pacing ourselves on this trip. Our focus to date has been all about giving ourselves “enough time” and then getting ready, equipped, packed and gone. Apart from “leaving Broome sometime in August” and “being back by early January” we deliberately hadn’t done much more planning than that. However, we’ve realised quite early on that we need to have some sort of pace set out so we don’t get too far ahead of schedule, or too far behind. From leaving Stanthorpe on Monday to arriving in Quilpie on Wednesday, we had averaged 333.3 km per day. Obviously that is a fair bit of driving through some areas we had seen a number of times, but that is still a fairly quick pace.

7 April 2024 We arrived in Windorah at around 3pm on Saturday. We’d planned to try the free camp behind the Western Star Hotel, but when we went to the front door, they weren’t open. A sign told us that hours had been shortened due to the extensive rain that has been falling over the last month or two, even though this is traditionally the start of the tourist season. We decided not to wait and instead went a block up the road and set up in the one caravan park here.

10 April 2024 We arrived in Windorah realising that insects might be a problem (based on experiences at The Lake), but that we should be OK. Then in Windorah the flies (and moths, and midgies) became a lot worse. I take a lot of the blame as I don’t really like wearing repellent but, even still, Windorah had a lot of flies. Watching the Japanese F1 Grand Prix outside the motorhome on Sunday really tested my resolve, and I was glad I had wraparound sunnies that at least stopped them getting in my eyes. Ears and nose not protected though.

10 April 2024 We arrived in Winton today. I’ve been here a number of times, most memorably with Mum and Dad for the opening of the new Waltzing Matilda Centre in April 2018. Mum and Dad met in Winton. Mum had finished her nursing training in Sydney and felt like an adventure, so headed north on the train with a friend seeking their first nursing jobs. All the way up the coast to Cairns they didn’t find any work but were told there may be a job in Cloncurry. Mum took the job and worked there for a year or so, until moving to a nursing job in Winton. After a year or so a young male teacher (Dad) moved into town doing his country service and, as they say, the rest is history.

13 April 2024 While in Winton we found out that they had renovated the old Royal Theatre. I’d been there before and it was a bit run down, but they have done a superb job doing it up now through lots of love, care and attention. They were showing Nostalgia Night the night we were there, which was really interesting. Mary (one of four volunteers opening for the same number of patrons) gave us a wonderful history of the theatre. Unbelievably, there were once 5 theatres in Winton in its prime, however only the Royal operates now. The theatre is open air with canvas seats and a skating rink at the front (for use when movies are not showing). The layout included a row four seats to one side where Mum, two kids and Dad could sit, with an extra wide isle where prams could be parked. This was known as Pram Alley.

13 April 2024 I can understand why you may have been having sleepless nights wondering how I’ve been on with my sausage rolls and what the latest count is. Worry no longer. Current scorecard Roma (8.5/10) Cloncurry (7.0/10) Winton (6.5/10) Onward and upward. ← ← Previous · Contents · Next →

13 April 2024 Yesterday we arrived at the old Mary Kathleen town, now deserted, to ‘free camp’ for a few nights. A wonderful and very interesting place. Here’s a little bit of history: Mary Kathleen, was a uranium mining town, about mid way between Mount Isa and Cloncurry in western Queensland, in the Cloncurry Shire. The Mary Kathleen uranium discovery was made by Clem Walton and Norm McConachy in 1954, and named after McConachy’s wife. Prospecting and exploitation rights were subsequently onsold, and in 1955 Rio Tinto Mining formed Mary Kathleen Uranium Ltd to develop a mine and service town. An architect-designed town grew during 1956-58, with reticulated water from a dam, Lake Corella.

13 April 2024 Nicole and I read that it was around 6 km into the old Mary Kathleen mine pit and that the road was very bad in places. We also confirmed the poor condition of the road with some fellow campers. So, not wanting to take our 3.1-metre-tall motorhome down something like that, we thought we could walk it as some exercise. We rose early and set off. Straight away we saw a sign suggesting it was further than we thought, but we persevered. The road indeed would have been too rough for us, but the views were nice. All good so far.

13 April 2024 We were not looking forward to the walk back as we had sore feet, and it was getting hotter. Soon after leaving the mine pit, we saw a 4WD heading up. They’d done well getting that far. Another 30 minutes along we saw what looked like an RACQ rescue helicopter heading our way, over us, and then doing multiple circles around the old mine. We thought it may have been to rescue that 4WD that had disappeared down one of the larger potholes. Or maybe it was making some sort of mercy call for us. It turns out it was neither, apparently doing some survey work.

15 April 2024 We’ve been on the road for around two weeks now. We’re settling in and slowing down. Having a motorhome, rather than a caravan and tow vehicle, has definite pros and cons. The pros revolve around not having to unhitch and re-hitch a caravan all the time, easier to park in towns, easier to set up when we arrive, and easier driving along. Plus, if you accidentally leave a cupboard unlatched, or leave something on the bench, you know all about it in around 200 metres, rather than potentially 200 km with a caravan. 🫣

18 April 2024 Nicole and I have just arrived at Daly Waters on the Stuart Highway. It’s in the middle of the NT about 3/4 of the way North. Having left Queensland on Wednesday morning and after a very pleasant stay at the Barkly Homestead last night (refer Map section for details), we’ve driven around 1,000km in two days. Dad had told me that there would be days where there is nothing to do but drive. He was right. And drive we did.

20 April 2024 After travelling around 1,200km in 2.5 days, we’re resting up for a bit in Mataranka. I must be getting old, as the drive really took it out of me. Perhaps it was also the chopped up roads and plenty of road trains but, yes, I think it’s mainly getting old. We checked in to the Bitter Springs Caravan and Camping park, a really lovely spot with plenty of shade. We were hoping to take immediate advantage of the natural Bitter Springs flowing in Elsey National Park a short walk away, and purchased pool noodles to take maximum advantage. As we were walking the last bit someone walked back past us saying someone had just showed them a video of a croc in the water there that seemed to be a saltwater (aka dangerous) croc. “I’m from Katherine, and what I saw was disturbing. I won’t be swimming in there.” he said, to add a verbal exclamation mark.

22 April 2024 Bitter Springs had remained closed while National Parks officers undertook some inspections. The local reps had a look and then decided to kick it to the croc expert in Darwin. He came down and had a look (after a day or two) and (in conjunction with our local caravan park owner) confirmed the following: There is a crocodile in Bitter Springs. It is a “freshie” i.e. a freshwater crocodile. He is around 2m long. He’s been there a long time and has never bothered anyone. Sometimes he likes sunning himself on the bottom set of steps where people get out of the water. So … we went for a swim this afternoon (we’re just about to spend our fourth and last night in Mataranka). The water and scenery were beautiful. We also had plenty of human company around us, which we surreptitiously used as human shields (yes, even the kids and elderly). You float slowly down with the current around 300m and can then get out and walk back along a path to the starting point. Floating along, our legs hit a submerged log. One of us screamed (very) briefly, and it wasn’t Nicole.

26 April 2024 Well, that heading got your attention! And no, this isn’t a retro post about an 80s and 90s Aussie rock band. Edith Falls is a beautiful place. A very hot (in late April), beautiful place. A very hot, beautiful place with a crocodile issue (saltwater not freshwater this time). A very hot, beautiful place with a crocodile issue, and no powered sites (meaning no air conditioning). After setting up we quickly realised it was going to be hot here, with little breeze and temperatures of around 34 degrees. Then, pretty much straight after arriving, a Park Ranger came to see us to explain that the Edith Falls Plunge Pool (the bottom pool most popular with swimmers and a major attraction given the weather) was currently closed for swimming and would be completely off limits for any visits from 6pm that night to 8am the next morning due to a “wildlife exercise” being undertaken. When Nicole asked exactly what that meant, the Ranger advised us they were trying to catch a saltwater crocodile that was active in the pool. In addition, there was the possibility we might hear a gunshot that night and, if so, not to be alarmed. We are definitely in the Top End!

29 April 2024 You may have noticed that I’ve been having some issues with images displaying on blog posts — specifically that they won’t. I spent around 2 hours yesterday and 3 hours this morning trying to fix it and couldn’t. Very frustrating! Then I had an after-lunch nap and Nicole said she would have a look at it. Nicole dabbled in setting up a side business building websites while we were living in Rockhampton and, like anything Nicole puts her mind to, she became very good at it.

3 May 2024 Nicole and I chose an “easy lunch” option in Katherine before heading to Katherine Gorge. After our third trip to the Katherine Woolworths and spying a Brumby’s Bakery right out the front each time, I relented and bought a sausage roll. For full disclosure, Nicole bought a vegetable pastie. We couldn’t eat them there or outside as there was nowhere in the shade to sit (VERY hot here still), so we went for a short drive to the local sporting grounds and watched the sporting oval getting mowed while we ate.

3 May 2024 In planning this trip, Nicole and I were open to the possibility that we could possibly develop some poor eating habits and return a bit heavier than we left. Which we didn’t want. The issue was that it would be highly likely that if we did start putting on weight on our trip we might not notice until we got back, and people started looking at us a bit differently/sorrowfully.

5 May 2024 Nomad: a member of a people who have no fixed residence but move from place to place usually seasonally and within a well-defined territory. (Merriam-Webster Dictionary) Just over a month into our trip, I thought it would be a good time to reflect on the nomadic existence we’re living. When I lived in Hong Kong in 1994/95, I went through stages of awareness of how I was living. The first stage, “This is a holiday”, lasted around 3 months. Stage 1 was a lot of fun without really comprehending what I was in for.

9 May 2024 Nicole and I arrived at Cooinda Lodge Caravan Park on 6 May and chose our site. We were charged nearly $80 per night for the site, which is by far the most we’ve ever paid. They certainly know how to take your money in the NT! On 7 May we boarded our sunset tour of Yellow Water Billabong. We had heard it would be a highlight, however that didn’t prepare is for what a stunningly beautiful place this is. Absolutely amazing and something everyone should see. And it (mostly) explains the cost to stay here.

9 May 2024 We were fortunate to be in such a beautiful place for Nicole; a beautiful person. After the sunset tour of Yellow Water Billabong on her Birthday Eve, Nicole chose a Barramundi fishing tour on the billabong for the morning of her birthday. With a 6:30am start there were to be no sleep-ins. We were on the water pretty quickly with only two others on the boat plus Gecko (Greg) our captain and guide, and Koda his deck hand. It is strictly catch and release in the National Park, and no live bait allowed, so we were using lures only.

16 May 2024 Visiting the Bowali Visitor Centre the day before, we were reminded that the Nawurlandja Lookout, with views over Nourlangie Rock, are a definite Kakadu must. This would mean back tracking around 35km to where we had been earlier that day, which isn’t much, so we decided to do it. I carefully researched driving time and sunrise times (with no ChatGPT involvement) to arrive at a departure time from Jabiru of around 5:40am to get there and be ready for the sun rising over Nourlangie Rock. While sunset is the more popular option, we had decided to watch the sunset at Ubirr Lookout instead.

16 May 2024 Cahill’s Crossing, the key crossing point into East Arnhem land, is famous for multiple crocodiles lounging around catching barramundi as the famous local fish spill over the road in the current. We chose to visit just before high tide as had been recommended, even though this would mean trying to fill in three hours or so before heading to Ubirr for sunset. So, how many crocodiles did we see across two hours and three separate visits? Zero.

17 May 2024 Since leaving Toowoomba at the end of the Easter Long Weekend, we’ve been through a few large towns and many quite small ones. And, as has been mentioned in various posts (e.g. regarding shopping non-times in Windorah), you are quite limited as to what you can buy and when you can buy it. So, there were some mixed feelings driving into Darwin. There was a sense of confusion and weirdness about driving in traffic again, with multi-laned intersections etc.

17 May 2024 I’ve received some feedback (and agree) that it would be better if the Photos section of the blog was sorted from newest photo to oldest, to make it easier to see new photos (i.e. without scrolling to the end of a lengthening list). So, this is now done. Can you also please let me know if you are still having issues with seeing photos in blog posts. However, please remember that you will not be able to see photos in the email notifications you receive for new posts. You will need to click on the Read on blog button at the top of the email to view the blog post via your browser.

26 May 2024 Nicole and I thought long and hard about this adventure option, and decided to lock it in. We got the idea from a couple we met in Winton (and then again in Mary Kathleen) whose son flies for them. They had said their son would be able to get us a discount however, unfortunately, that didn’t eventuate. Oh well, we tried. Essentially, it’s a half day fishing charter — substituting a helicopter for the boat. Very cool and lots of fun!

26 May 2024 Very early in the morning after Heli Fish (around 1:00am!), our daughter Katelyn arrived to spend a week with us. We had been so looking forward to seeing her, and so it was great to finally have her here in Darwin with us. In the caravan park we’re staying at, we were able to get a studio cabin and adjoining powered site so that we were literally back-to-back. This made it very easy to stay in touch during the week, while still giving Katelyn some space.

27 May 2024 It’s been a long time between sausage rolls. Too long. With strong support and encouragement from Nicole, I got back on the sausage roll horse in Darwin. Nicole did some proactive research for me (while she might be trying to hinder me in the Friday Weigh Ins, I think her intentions are altruistic) and found that the Outback Bakery in Fannie Bay was noted for their sausage rolls. So, off we went.

3 June 2024 We decided to fit in a trip to visit the “jumping crocodiles” between leaving Darwin and heading back into Litchfield National Park. We had heard a lot of people say how good it was, so why not. We weren’t able to book on to the right time for the original jumping crocodile tour, so we booked instead on the Spectacular Jumping Crocodile Cruise — operating only about 800m further up the Adelaide River. One operator operates downstream, and one upstream (I think).

3 June 2024 Doesn’t life throw up interesting surprises. After experiencing somewhat of a sausage roll drought, over the last week it’s been a “sausage roll tsunami” (some nice alliteration there). Three sausage rolls in a week! Humpty Doo First, there was Humpty Doo. We had stopped initially for a coffee, but then Nicole’s eagle-eyes spotted sausage rolls in the cabinet. “Could I have a sausage roll as well please?”, Nicole asked. “Sorry love, they’ll be at least another fifteen minutes away” came the reply. We needed to press on, so we went with Option B — an Italian herb and [something] sausage roll.

8 June 2024 The El Questro Wilderness Park is around a one-hour drive from Kununurra. According to their website … Located in the East Kimberley, El Questro is 700,000 acres of vast and stunningly beautiful terrain. This diverse landscape extends 80 kilometres north to south and 60 kilometres east to west and is mostly unexplored. Having been there now, I certainly agree. The drive in takes you along the base of a section of the Cockburn Range, which is absolutely magical to see in the early morning sun.

11 June 2024 Having spoken to the Kununurra Information Centre, discussing with multiple fellow travellers, and much online research, Nicole and I decided that driving into the Bungle Bungles (also known as Purnululu National Park) was a bit out of our comfort zone. All reports were that it was a very rough drive in, and not for the feint hearted. A shame, but there you go. So, we decided to book a flight over it — and so glad we did. We were treated to a magic day weather-wise, with zero clouds and lovely crisp weather. We also had an early take off of around 6:15am (getting picked up at 5:15am!), meaning we would have lovely light for the flight. Unfortunately, as we were taxiing to take off, I received a tap on the shoulder from behind (I was in the row right behind the pilot).

12 June 2024 After a short stay in Derby, Nicole and I packed up for our drive to Cape Leveque. This included Steve first watching a replay of the Canadian F1 GP and us cooking our ‘go to’ breakfast — bacon, fried egg and spinach on a wrap. Breakfast of nomads! So, we were fed. And then, we remembered Rusty’s Bakery that had been shut all weekend but was now open. I’m pretty sure you know where this is heading (if the title somehow didn’t already give it away).

13 June 2024 After briefly visiting the Ardyaloon Indigenous Community and Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm at the tip of Cape Leveque, we drove one third of the way back down the Cape to our resting point for the next two nights — Banana Well Getaway. It was pitched as a very serene, peaceful place to stay, relax, and be close to nature. On arrival, while talking to one of the managers, we were confronted by a stinking cloud of smoke engulfing everything and everyone. When we asked what this was all about, we were told, “Oh that’s our mosquito control measures. It’s our own special mix of diesel and citronella.”

14 June 2024 On Wednesday, 12 June, Nicole and I reached the Indian Ocean at Broome. This is somewhat of a milestone, as well as a chance to reflect (and rest). Our first glimpse of the Indian Ocean at Cable Beach. Some trip statistics so far: 76 — days on the road since leaving home 9,394 — kilometres driven 123.6 — average km driven per day 66 — nights powered site camping (too high) 84 — dollars per night as most expensive place to stay (Yellow Water Campground) 9 — nights in Darwin as longest single stay 2.60 — highest price ($/litre) paid for diesel (Barkly Homestead) 23 — number of times emptying toilet cassette (approximate) 0 — number of tyre punctures (touch wood) 4 — bird strikes in the motorhome [too many to count] — number of road trains we’ve seen coming the other way. On arriving at Banana Well Getaway (Cape Leveque) we had driven 1,728 km in 4 days, so needed a break. We’ll now be staying in Broome for 12 nights to recuperate, recharge and relax; a “holiday from our holiday” so to speak.

18 June 2024 While in Broome, Nicole and I booked on to an offshore fishing charter. While Nicole was very keen to catch another Barramundi, we agreed to change things up a bit and get offshore. We booked with Absolute Ocean Charters and weren’t disappointed. We heard from a fellow waiting outside to be picked up that he had done one of their charters a few years back, and that it was the best he’d ever been on.

25 June 2024 One of the very relaxing 13 afternoons we spent in Broome, Nicole and I walked down to Cable Beach to check out the famous camel rides. Neither of us were that interested in having a ride and, even if we were, they were booked out for weeks and weeks (apparently). Arriving at the beach half an hour before sunset we found a literal “Cable Beach Car Park”, with 4WDs lined up on the beach as far as we could see — ready for the show.

25 June 2024 Nicole and I had booked ourselves on a fly, boat and drive tour of the Horizontal Falls and Dampier Peninsula. All these tours are super popular, this being the main reason we stayed so long in Broome i.e. to mark time until the first tour we could get ourselves on to (22 June). The tour started with being picked up at the caravan park at 5:15am (yawn!) and getting dropped back at 5:45pm — a very long day.

25 June 2024 While in Broome, Nicole and I walked the 1.5km to the General Store. We’d been there the previous week to buy a lemon (to have with the fish we caught on our fishing charter) and noticed they had homemade sausage rolls. Mental note made. I had thought we were walking just to the cafe at the caravan park we were staying at that also had homemade sausage rolls, and so stayed in thongs with no hat and no sunnies. I thought it was strange Nicole was taking both, then realised too late.

4 July 2024 We set off from Port Headland very early, aided each by a Sausage and Egg McMuffin Meal with a Large Cappuccino from McDonalds for breakfast — a ‘go to’ option when we want a hassle free (read lazy) departure. It was raining lightly as we were leaving, and only got heavier on our drive to Tom Price along the Great Northern Highway. This is the main road transport route into some of the biggest iron ore mines in the Pilbara.

10 July 2024 While the blog posts may have slowed up a bit of late (busy sightseeing, driving and relaxing), the sausage roll consumption certainly hasn’t. While there was a food poisoning scare with the last sausage roll sampling as you may remember, I can assure you I’ve been back on the horse since — especially with Nicole’s continued enthusiastic support. And no, I haven’t gone above my trip starting weight (yet).

19 July 2024 Nicole and I had been looking forward to Exmouth, home of the Whale Shark, Ningaloo Reef and Cape Range National Park. Our first impression upon arrival? This place is BUSY! It was the second week of the WA School Holidays, with the town teeming with families with schoolkids, backpackers, grey nomads, and not-so-grey nomads (like us). I think I counted 0.36 gazillion 4WDs. The caravan park we stayed at (Ningaloo Caravan and Holiday Resort) was nice enough and quite central, if not a bit crowded.

23 July 2024 From our cozy site — with ocean glimpses (see image below) — in Denham, we set out quite early one morning to go to see the dolphins at Monkey Mia. We got there for sunrise, which was definitely worth getting up early in the cold for, as you can see. With sunrise at Monkey Mia “ticked”, we went to the relatively posh Monkey Mia Resort for breakfast. Breakfast started at 7:00am, which gave us time to eat and get ourselves in position for the first dolphin “experience” at 7:45am. If only they gave out a free coffee voucher for every time the rangers said the word “experience” during their talk to the crowd, I wouldn’t have had to buy another one until we got to Perth. See, you don’t just watch the dolphins getting fed (nobody from the public gets to feed them anymore), you get to experience them. And, the big rectangular area between the rope and the water that we had to stay behind until the dolphins arrived, is known as the DEA — no, not the Drug Enforcement Agency, the Dolphin Experience Area.